Even a visitor who's just stopping into one Roman church to check out a Caravaggio needs to know some basic etiquette so as not to offend any of the priests, nuns, patrons, or locals (who, regardless of religious persuasion, always know how to behave.) First of all, men and women alike need to dress appropriately even for a quick stop in a church - meaning no hats and not too much bare skin. Ideally, women's shoulders and knees should be covered, though it's not enforced everywhere. Carrying a light cardigan to throw over one's shoulders should avert any dress code snags (and keep ladies' bare arms snug in the cold church interiors.) Second, never interrupt a worship service. Visitors may think themselves inconspicuous as they creep up a side aisle hoping to catch a glimpse of a piece of artwork in the front, but they're not, and the disruption is considered rude. Check out the hours of Mass on the door and plan church sightseeing accordingly.  « hide

The Roma, or "Gypsies" as they're more commonly called, are a real presence in the Italian capital. The cultural group as a whole is fascinating, with a well-developed art and handicraft tradition; unfortunately, the public face of the Roma often shown to travelers is less pleasant. Everywhere in the city, outdoor diners and tourists are plagued by beggar children and pickpockets, many whom have been sent out by a parent (look off in the distance, a woman in flowing clothes, usually holding a baby, is likely watching over her panhandling brood.) These children certainly deserve kindness and even sympathy, though it's not necessary to give them any money. Visitors should be watchful of their purses, wallets, cameras, or any other valuables when Roma children are lurking about. That cute four year old boy, given the chance, could be taking off with someone's cash and credit cards.  « hide