Combining lush nature with quaint small-town charm not often found in a city the size of LA, Los Feliz has become a hot spot for hipsters and creatives looking for a neighborhood to call their own.
You probably won’t find Los Feliz at the top of many must-visit lists for Los Angeles, and there’s a reason for that – the locals want to keep it all for themselves. This charming neighborhood is something of a rarity in LA, thanks to the fact that it manages to be within striking distance of all the city’s biggest sights and attractions, while still remaining refreshingly laid back and low-key. Situated just south of vast Griffith Park, Los Feliz combines the best of LA’s outdoorsy lifestyle with a plethora of cool eateries and indie boutiques. In the morning you could be hiking up to the Hollywood sign, while the afternoon might find you lounging outside a local bistro or browsing in a vintage store. For those looking for a slightly slower-paced way of life in the heart of hectic LA, this under-the-radar ‘hood is the one for you. The vibe in Los Feliz is so laid back, it's practically horizontal. The neighborhood is mainly populated by young creative types, who flocked to the area when the rent was still relatively affordable (though its status as LA’s hippest new enclave means those days are long gone). Most of the action in this largely walkable ‘hood is centered around two main streets: Hillhurst Avenue, where you’ll find most of the area’s restaurants and bars, and Vermont Avenue, home to its funky indie stores. The atmosphere is welcoming and friendly – people rarely dress up for a night out at the local eateries and the celebrities that live here do so because they can get away with going incognito (most of the time, at least).
By car – Getting around Los Angeles and visiting its numerous sights and attractions is often best done by car if you’d rather avoid trying to navigate multiple bus timetables. It’s easy to find rental companies in the city and the drive from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to Los Feliz takes around an hour, while Hollywood is just a short 10-minute drive away.
By public transport – If you’d rather do without a car, Los Feliz is well connected by public transport. The Metro B Line runs from Union Station in Downtown LA and stops at Vermont & Sunset, which is close to Los Feliz’s main attractions. The line then carries on into Hollywood and Universal City, where LA’s famous Universal Studios are located. The area is also well serviced by buses, with the main lines including the 180, which runs from Hollywood to Pasadena via Los Feliz, and the 182, which will take you up to Griffith Park and around East Hollywood.
Don’t miss a chance to check out the Griffith Observatory, an Art Deco architectural marvel that reveals the secrets of the cosmos. Free public star parties are held there every month – check the website to find out when the next one is taking place.
Los Feliz is the only neighborhood in LA lucky enough to have the vast verdant expanse of Griffith Park on its doorstep. Spread across 4,000 acres, the park is home to numerous hiking trails that will get your heart pumping while also rewarding you with staggering views over the Hollywood Sign above and the cityscape below. If you’re traveling with the kids pay a visit to the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens, where you can spot elephants, giraffes, and tigers.
Thanks to the fact that Los Angeles enjoys warm weather almost 365 days of the year, the city is the perfect place to take in a spot of open-air theater. The historic Greek Theater is one of the loveliest al fresco spots in LA, hosting internationally acclaimed musicians under the stars. Despite its size (the amphitheater seats around 6,000) a show here always feels wonderfully intimate, as if it’s just you, the artist and the trees.
It’s not all about Griffith Park in Los Feliz – the neighborhood is also home to another notable green space, the Barnsdall Art Park. The hillside site was bought by oil heiress, socialite, and passionate arts supporter Aline Barnsdall after World War I and she enlisted famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright to build a cluster of buildings at its summit. The most famous of these is the Mayan-inspired Hollyhock House, LA’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take a tour of the two-story home, which was named after Barnsdall’s favorite flower and features abstract motifs of the bloom throughout the building.
Wine aficionados should add Bar Covell to their list for a post-dinner drink – the wine list here is extensive, featuring an enticing range of small production selections from around the world.
Dining in Los Feliz isn’t about discovering the hottest new eatery or working your way through a Michelin-starred tasting menu; it’s about soaking up the inviting ambiance in the area’s warm and welcoming bars and restaurants. Sitting at one of the charming sidewalk tables outside Figaro Bistrot on Vermont Avenue feels like being transported to Paris, if only for the afternoon. Alcove Café and Bakery, meanwhile, is the place to come for all-American classics. Spread across two converted houses with a delightful patio, it’s the perfect spot for a lazy brunch or a casual date night (if you come in the evening, you have the added bonus of being able to move on to the adjacent Big Bar for some hand-crafted cocktails).
If you are in the market for something a little more upscale, book a table at Atrium. With its high ceilings, exposed brick walls, and green velvet banquettes, it’s known for being one of the loveliest dining rooms in the neighborhood, with an excellent contemporary American menu to match.
Los Feliz is known for its eclectic collection of independent shops and boutiques, many of which are clustered around Vermont Avenue. First on your must-visit list should be Skylight Books, one of Los Angeles’ most beloved indie bookstores. Light and airy, with a tree growing through the middle, this is the place to come for quirky, hand-picked reading recommendations.
For one-off gifts head to Sumi’s, which specializes in handmade wares by small businesses. They’re particularly known for their handcrafted jewelry, much of which is made by local artists. If you’re looking to pick up a rock ‘n roll t-shirt or a vintage dress, check out Squaresville. The labyrinthine second-hand store is spread across two floors and is stuffed full of Fifties frocks and retro threads, as well as the odd designer treasure just waiting to be unearthed.
Due to its reputation as a local hideaway rather than a tourist hot spot, Los Feliz isn’t filled with five-star hotels or big chain properties, but there are a few hip hotels here and in neighboring Silver Lake that tap into this part of LA’s distinctly creative vibe. Top of that list is the Silver Lake Pool & Inn, a chic, sleekly designed boutique hotel with a rooftop pool and a buzzy Italian trattoria. Located just below Griffith Park is the Cara Hotel, formerly known as the Coral Sands Motel, a former 1950s motel that’s been turned into an urban oasis with an olive tree-filled courtyard and spacious rooms with private balconies.
Thanks to its relaxed, almost sleepy charm, Los Feliz is the perfect neighborhood for couples and families looking to discover the quieter side of LA life, while still being near enough to explore the city’s main sights and attractions. Young creatives and singles will also enjoy the friendly atmosphere; this is one neighborhood where it’s perfectly normal to strike up a conversation with the table next door at the local bar.