Guide to Downtown, Los Angeles
Downtown: LA’s Buzzy Concrete Jungle, Where Soaring Skyscrapers Meet Hollywood HistoryIf you’re looking for LA’s coolest new restaurant, bar, or art gallery, chances are you’ll find it in Downtown Los Angeles. Over recent years, DTLA has had something of a renaissance, putting it firmly on the map as one of the City of Angels’ must-visit neighborhoods.
Downtown LA feels wholly different from the rest of Los Angeles – you won’t find towering palm trees or that laid-back SoCal vibe here. Instead, there’s a thrumming energy that bounces around the clusters of sky-high buildings, thanks to the plethora of hot new restaurants, bars, boutiques, and art galleries that are opening up here on a seemingly daily basis. To be honest, only a few decades ago, you wouldn’t have found DTLA on many out-of-towner itineraries thanks to the fact that the area was mainly reserved for business travelers, not to mention it felt downright sketchy in many places. And while Downtown does still retain its grittier edge, it’s also home to some of the most beautiful buildings in Los Angeles, bursting with history. From Downtown’s Historic Core to its once all-industrial Arts District – now home to the city’s most talked-about bars and restaurants – there’s so much to explore. Go with an open mind and you will be duly rewarded.
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Downtown’s Character
Unlike most major American cities, LA’s Downtown area isn’t the central hub of the city, nor is it the most affluent. In fact, you’ll find the neighborhood is distinctly grittier than Beverly Hills and there are certain blocks you simply won’t feel safe walking on (the infamous Skid Row is located in this part of LA). But over recent years, DTLA has cleaned up its act and it’s now one of the buzziest neighborhoods in all of LA, where you’ll find once-abandoned historic buildings being transformed into trendy concept stores and cool new eateries. Downtown is also one of the few truly walkable areas in LA, where every street corner has a story to tell.
Getting to Downtown
It can be tricky to find parking on the streets in DTLA, but there are plenty of parking lots and garages where spaces are available for a small fee. Do some research in advance to figure out which one is closest to where you’re heading.
By car – Downtown LA is one of the few neighborhoods in the city that is probably not best reached by car, thanks to the fact that it has lots of brilliant public transport links. Though if you plan on heading out of the ‘hood or taking the odd day trip outside LA, hiring a car could be a good option. Driving from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) to DTLA takes around 20 minutes, and it’s around half an hour to Hollywood (as long as you make sure to avoid LA’s infamous rush hour).
By public transport – Downtown is the best-connected neighborhood in Los Angeles when it comes to public transport, with four of the city’s main Metro lines linking through here. The key lines worth knowing about include the Expo Line, which will take you from DTLA to Santa Monica in just under an hour, and the Red Line, which runs through Hollywood and up to Universal City. DASH buses are another great way to get around DTLA, with six routes serving the Downtown area and stopping at most of the neighborhood’s main attractions.
Take a Tour of the World-Famous Art Galleries
If discovering lesser-known, emerging artists is more your thing, make a beeline for Gallery Row in the heart of DTLA. Here you’ll find over 50 independent art galleries, museums, and public art installations all within walking distance.
Downtown LA is home to some of the city’s finest contemporary art galleries and museums. Start off with a tour of the Broad, which houses Eli and Edythe Broad’s collection of works by the likes of Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Jeff Koons, as well as two of Yayoi Kusama’s perennially popular Infinity Mirror Rooms. Next, head over to the sprawling Hauser & Wirth complex, located in a former flour mill. Spread over 116,000 square feet, it’s easy to lose yourself among the multiple contemporary art exhibitions. Finish off at MOCA Grand Avenue, where you’ll find thousands of works dating from 1940 to the present day, including pieces by Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko.
Marvel at the Local Architecture
As one of LA’s most walkable neighborhoods, hitting the streets in DTLA is a great way to soak up the area’s infectious energy, while also getting the chance to spot some of its most famous landmarks. Frank Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall is a sight to behold, made up of swooping metal-clad panels that sparkle in the sunlight. Come to see an LA Philharmonic concert or sign up for a free audio tour to explore the hall’s hidden corners. For something totally different, check out the Spanish Gothic style of the Ace Theatre. Modeled on the Segovia Cathedral in Spain, the ornate theater was once the flagship for Charlie Chaplin’s film studio, United Artists.
Catch a game at the Crypto.com Arena
This sports venue – which until recently was known as the Staples Center – is where the LA Lakers play their home fixtures, and on game nights the atmosphere is always electric. They’re not the only sports team you can catch here, though. The venue is also home to the Los Angeles Clippers and the Los Angeles Sparks, as well as the Los Angeles Kings ice hockey team. Music lovers should note this is also a key LA concert venue – Taylor Swift has performed over 15 sellout shows here, and the annual Grammy Awards have been held at the venue since 2000.
Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown LA
Over recent years, DTLA has proved itself to be one of Los Angeles’ most exciting dining destinations, with creative restaurants taking over disused buildings in the Arts District or Historic Core and turning them into must-visit spots.
Can’t decide what you want to eat? Pay a visit to the bustling Grand Central Market food hall, where every cuisine is catered for, whether you’re in the mood for spicy rice bowls, crispy fried chicken, or wonton soup.
Husband-and-wife team Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis are behind two of the hottest Downtown restaurants, Bestia and Bavel. The former serves modern Italian food cooked in a wood-burning oven, the latter delicious Middle Eastern dishes that celebrate the couples’ shared cultural heritage. For first-rate Mexican food, book a table at Damian in the Arts District, where you can feast on unforgettable tostadas and quesadillas. Don’t miss the tasting menu at Michelin-starred Orsa & Winston, where the Japanese-Italian dishes are made using only the finest locally sourced ingredients.
If you’re just looking to pick up a quick bite while you’re on the go, you’re in luck – DTLA is full of great cheap and cheerful eateries. While the question of who invented the French dip sandwich has long been contested, Philippe the Original has one of the strongest claims, having been in business since 1908. Choose lamb, beef, or turkey for your sandwich filling, then ask your server to dunk the bread in the flavor-packed meaty juices. For pizza by the slice, head to the daytime-only counter at Danny Boy’s Famous Original, which specializes in the New York-style triangles, while the Tijuana-inspired tacos at Tacos 1986 can’t be beaten.
When it comes to bars, the offerings in DTLA tend to fall into two camps: scenic rooftop bars and moodily lit establishments that take their cocktails very seriously. For the former, try tiki-inspired Broken Shaker at the top of the Freehand Hotel and Perch LA, set amidst the skyscrapers on Pershing Square. For the latter, try the hip Everson Royce Bar in the Arts District and the sultry, subterranean Death & Co. on East 3rd Street.
Your Shopping Guide to Downtown
Every Sunday, the ROW hosts its jam-packed Smorgasburg food market, where you’ll find dozens of stalls serving up enticing street food dishes. Don’t miss it!
In keeping with its distinctly cool urban vibe, the shops in DTLA tend to cater to a discerning crowd, who prefer to steer away from the mainstream when it comes to picking up their threads. The industrial-chic Dover Street Market in the Arts District epitomizes that trend. Specializing in cult streetwear labels and offbeat designers, you’ll find collections from Marni and Miu Miu sitting alongside pieces by Supreme and Bape.
Dubbed a creative city-within-a-city, the vast ROW DTLA space in the Fashion District has become a must-visit dining and retail destination since opening in 2017. The 32-acre former warehouse space houses a carefully curated selection of shops, ranging from vintage boutiques and streetwear faves to modern furniture and arty stationery stores.
Where to Stay in Downtown LA
Many of the hotels in Downtown LA have taken over the neighborhood’s most striking historic buildings, making good use of the grand façades and period details. The Hoxton is a buzzy spot housed in a French Beaux-Arts building that was once the headquarters of the LA Railway Authority; it’s now home to a cool rooftop pool and interiors curated by Soho House. The Ace Hotel, meanwhile, has turned the Gothic-inspired United Artists Building into a hip hangout with concrete columns and graffitied walls.
For old Hollywood grandeur, book a room at the Millennium Biltmore, which was one of the first venues to hold the Academy Awards. The interiors are filled with ornate flourishes, from hand-painted ceilings to murals and marble fountains. Those looking for a more affordable option should check into the eclectically designed Freehand LA. The hostel-hotel hybrid offers a range of different rooms, from sleek loft suites to shared dorms with bunk beds.
Who Should Stay in Downtown?
Up until fairly recently, DTLA was only reserved for business travelers, and the neighborhood is still a great option for those flying in for work, as it’s home to many of the city’s main offices and conference centers, as well as being a short drive from LAX. Thanks to its recent resurgence as a food and arts hot spot, it also now draws a young crowd looking to tap into the local creative scene. While its slightly gritty and shabby appearance may not appeal to some traveling with young kids, its great transport links to the rest of LA make it a good option for anyone visiting the City of Angels.