La Magnolia

Two things: 1) be aware that the location of La M is too narrow for a taxi to navigate. Take the funicular from the train (1 euro) and then the free bus to the duomo. Easy 90-second walk from there. And 2) La M's sign is discrete but easy to miss, especially at night. Ask the hotel for a map.

Pros: I have never enjoyed a B&B more. The Duomo and other 'attractions were steps from the door. The room was exquisite. Breakfast was delicious. And Serena is knowledgeable and charming.