Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is the biggest and best of the city’s two international airports. Clean and well laid out with beautiful terminals and first-rate amenities (the shopping!), its intimidating size is tempered by its Italian flare.
And it’s huge. Italy’s busiest airport, Fiumicino handles over 40 million passengers annually and that number is trending upwards. The airport serves as a major hub with numerous airlines operating domestic and international routes across the globe.
It’s certainly doing something right. Rome Fiumicino has won multiple ACI EUROPE “Best Airport Award” honors (Over 40 million passengers category) and has consistently received ACI’s “Best Airport in Europe” recognition in recent years.
Traveling to and from Rome and beyond
Fiumicino’s footprint is too big for Rome’s city walls, so it sits approximately 30-32 km (about 19-20 miles) from the center near the small town that gave it its name. It’s a beautiful setting hugging the coastline of the Tyrrhenian Sea, so I highly recommend booking a window seat for your flights in and out.
By taxi
Taxis are an option, though I’ve always found them hit or miss. The journey to central Rome typically takes about 40-50 minutes with good traffic and there are officially fixed fares for airport trips (€55 for trips to Rome city center within the Aurelian Walls), but in my experience, taxi drivers are more interested in setting their own fees or using the meter, which can be extortionate. Check what the fixed fee is in advance and only accept a ride once you’ve agreed to it with the driver.
If you’re coming from Rome and need to ask, it’s pronounced “fyoo-muh-chee-now”. You’re welcome.
By train
By far the best option for heading into Rome central is the Leonardo Express train. Hop on at the airport railway station close to both terminals and it will see you to Roma Termini main station in 32 minutes. Trains depart every 15 minutes (with some time slots every 30 minutes) from Roma Termini starting at 04:50 until 23:35, and from FCO starting at 05:38 until 00:23 daily.
For destinations outside the center, the FL1 regional line trains might be a better fit. They bypass Termini and instead hit popular districts like Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina. They also run every 15 minutes on weekdays (every 30 on weekends and holidays) and cost €8.00 compared to the Leonardo Express at €14.00, though they are much slower.
Your third rail option takes you beyond Rome on a Frecciarossa ‘red arrow’ train. These high-speed trains connect directly to some of Italy’s best cities, like Naples, Florence, Bologna, Padua and Venice. They run regularly but not constantly, so check the schedule in advance.
If you’re traveling to Fiumicino on a Trenitalia train and flying with ITA Airways, you might be able to use their FCO Connect service. This lets you drop your bags at the airport train station and pick them up at your final destination. The bag drop is open daily from six am to two pm and while it’s primarily for those who’ve already checked in online, the desk also provides check-in services per program conditions.
By bus
Plenty of bus lines run between Fiumicino and various spots in Rome. The trip typically takes about 50 minutes, and while buses are frequent and affordable (around €7 one-way), they can also be cramped and sweaty. Honestly, you’re better off taking the train.
By car
The airport is far enough from Rome that driving is easy. It also gives you a chance to explore nearby coastal towns like the ancient, atmospheric Ardea. There’s plenty of parking, with short-stay lots within walking distance of the terminals via covered pedestrian walkways and long-stay lots connected by a free shuttle bus service running about every 15 minutes.
You’ll find the usual major car rental companies alongside a wide range of local outfits offering all sorts of deals. A word of advice from my travels in Italy: stick to the names you know. Smaller companies can be fond of finding ways to add costs after you return the car. My go-to is Drivalia.
Airport layout
Fiumicino Airport is in a state of flux, which has led to some slightly strange naming. Only Terminal 1 and Terminal 3 are currently functioning. Terminal 2 is permanently closed and its area has been used for the northwest expansion of Terminal 1. Terminal 5, which was the main hub for US flights, is currently closed. After all that, we’re left with a much simpler layout: two terminals, right next to each other.
This makes transfers between them easy, as they’re just a five-minute walk apart. In my experience, the walk is quicker than waiting for the free shuttle bus.
Check-in, security and connections
Check-in and security
If you have to drop bags or check in at the airport, expect queues. I’ve never had to wait more than 30 minutes, but the sheer volume of passengers can cause bottlenecks. If you can’t travel with only a carry-on, give yourself an hour, just like at any major airport.
Security has taken a leap forward at both terminals in recent years with the installation of smart scanners (EDS C3 screening in Terminal 1). With passengers now able to leave liquids, aerosols, gels and electronic devices in their bags, queues are shorter and swifter.
If traveling to Non-Schengen countries, you’ll also have to go through passport control. So put down the pizza and remember to give yourself time to get through them before your flight.
Connections and transfers
If you’re catching a connecting flight within Schengen countries, you normally won’t need to go through security again. If you’re connecting from a non-Schengen country, you’ll have to go through immigration and security, so plan for an extra hour. Connecting flights are well-signed, with a board showing details, times and gates right after you deplane.
A guide to Terminal 1
The smaller of the two terminals is also my favorite for its amenities and layout. Serving primarily domestic and Schengen countries, it’s the home of ITA Airways, Italy’s national flag carrier and the biggest carrier at the terminal.
Elsewhere, departure boards teem with familiar low-cost carrier names ferrying people to all manner of destinations. T1 is home to Boarding Area A and all gate numbers start with A.
One of the great things about the budget airline boom is the variety of routes it has opened up, inviting people to explore places they might not have considered before. Fiumicino is a perfect example, acting as a central hub for Mediterranean tourism. The fact that it has a massive Aelia duty-free store (around 3,000 m²) proves its popularity.
Shopping is solid, with a good mix of Italian fashion brands and gift stores. But the real star in T1 is the Eataly food court on the Mezzanine Level in Boarding Area A. Since most passengers here are on shorter flights, they don’t always have time for a sit-down meal. Eataly brings Italian quality to fast food.
Forget greasy pizza and soggy pasta. Here you’ll find authentic and tasty (if a bit pricey) Italian classics. You can browse and pick what you like, but you’d be wise not to overlook the mozzarella di bufala pizza and Amatriciana pasta. For something more sophisticated with fine wine, head to Berlucchi.
A guide to Terminal 3
Terminal 3 is much larger, handling domestic, Schengen and non-Schengen flights for airlines not assigned to Terminal 1. If you’re flying to or from the US, this is where you’ll be.
While Terminal 3 has plenty of Italian eats, I’m usually swayed by the great ramen at Ajisen. There are more cafés than you can count, but Caffè Kimbo is my favorite, unless the chocolates at Venchi are calling my name. Once you’re full, it’s time to shop, and you’re very well catered to here.
From Emporio Armani to Ermenegildo Zegna, with Cartier and Louis Vuitton in between, every major luxury brand has an outlet, especially in Boarding Area E. It’s an overwhelming display of glitz and high fashion that’s a blast to window shop, at the very least. Best of all, if you’re heading to a non-EU destination, you’re eligible for VAT relief on qualifying purchases. Don’t forget to claim your VAT back from any Rome purchases at the dedicated refund desks (Global Blue, Planet, Tax Refund) in Terminal 3, just keep your receipts.
One last thing to watch for as you navigate T3 (and T1, for that matter) are the incredible art installations. Celebrating Italian history and culture, you might look up and find yourself face-to-face with ancient statues and mosaics from the nearby Archaeological Park of Ostia Antica, particularly in Boarding Area E.
This KAYAK-commissioned article is presented as-is, for general informational purposes only, and may not be up-to-date. The opinions contained in the article are original to the author and reflect their authentic experience, which may vary significantly from the experience of others.
