Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (pronounced ‘soo-wan-na-poom’) is the busiest airport in Thailand and the main international gateway to one of the most visited cities in the world. It handles the majority of international flights into Thailand, and it was always going to be big and busy. Suvarnabhumi lives up to that expectation in every way.
Not only is it an entry point for Thailand’s magic, manic capital, it’s also the primary transfer route to other destinations. Chiang Mai to the north, the tropical islands of Krabi and Koh Samui to the south. At first glance it’s a gargantuan and intimidating maze with some unique quirks. Yet it’s also well run, clean and packed with facilities and amenities.
Getting to and from the airport
Located in the Bang Phli district, Suvarnabhumi is around 19 miles east of central Bangkok. It’s a massive city though, and that distance can change a lot depending on where you’re staying, so choose your transport accordingly.
Airport Rail Link
The best all round option is the Airport Rail Link (ARL), which is cheap and regular. Once upon a time there was also an express service, but don’t be fooled by the Express Line signs still on display. Nowadays, all trains stop at all eight stations on the way to the final stop at BTS Phaya Thai. It’s not as quick, but it’s easier to connect to other transit systems in the city, the BTS SkyTrain and MRT Metro.
Journeys take around 30 minutes and trains run every 10 to 15 minutes from 05:30 until 24:00. The ARL station is on Basement Level B1 and is well signposted, although signs call it everything from ‘Airport Rail Link’ to ‘Train to City’ to ‘City Line’.
Tickets are cheap but be warned, while cash payment via ticket machines is still available, the system now accepts EMV contactless bank cards (Visa/Mastercard) directly at the gates in addition to cash tokens. Make sure you have a payment method ready beforehand.
Taxi or Grab
On Level 1 between gates 4 and 7, you’ll find taxis running 24/7. The trip to the city center is about 45-60 minutes but can vary wildly with traffic. When I’m staying east or north, I usually take a taxi just for the convenience. Prices are incomparably cheap compared to the US and Europe, even with the 50 baht airport surcharge and tolls. Just make sure the meter is on before you start.
Grab is everywhere in Thailand. It’s like the Uber of Asia, only supercharged for food, deliveries and transport. Ordering a Grab through the app is quick, easy and can be cheaper than a taxi. While I never use it when leaving the airport into Bangkok, I often do when going the other way.
Bus or van
If you need to get to the other airport in Bangkok, Don Mueang (DMK), for a connecting flight, a free shuttle bus runs from 05:00 until 24:00, departing from Level 2, Gate 3. Otherwise, public buses and vans connect to a huge range of city stops, with the S1 route departing from Level 1 Gate 7 and some intercity buses from Level 1 Gate 8.
Car rental
You’ll find a range of car rental options on Level 2, with all the usual international names plus some local ones. I’ve never rented a car in Thailand and can think of little worse than driving straight from the plane into the mania of Bangkok’s streets. Unless you’re heading into the countryside with lots of luggage, I’d say skip it. Use public transport and rent scooters for day trips, it’s much more fun and way less stressful.
Navigating the airport
What was once a swamp is now a seven-level-plus-basement behemoth with a stunning new satellite terminal. With approximately 52 million travelers passing through annually on over 100 airlines, its scale can be intimidating. The trick to getting around is to not take it all in at once and instead break it down step-by-step.
All arrivals come into Level 2 and then head down to Level 1 for transport. Level 3 is where you’ll find landside restaurants and shops. Check-in, security, immigration and departures are all on Level 4. Need more food options? Head up to Level 6, which is primarily dedicated to restaurants and dining. Level 7 is the observation deck popular with plane spotters. To get there you’ll need to take the elevator to Level 6 and then walk up the ramp.
Top tip: if you’re hungry, there’s an incredibly cheap food court on Level 1 landside, humbly called Magic Food Court. You’ll find lots of decent Thai street food stalls and mostly airport workers eating there. It’s a lovely last – or first – impression of Thailand and the Pad Krapow is legit spicy. Just follow the signs for ‘Fast Food’ and take cash.
Technically, the entire airport is one terminal split into zones serving domestic and international flights. The East Zone houses gates A and B for domestic flights, while the Center and West Zones house gates C, D, E, F and G for international flights. They’re all part of the same building with plenty of moving walkways, but it’s still a long way between zones.
The new SAT-1 terminal is a design masterpiece and is gradually handling more international flights. It connects to the main terminal via an underground Automated People Mover that makes the journey quick and easy.
Check in, bag drop and security
Suvarnabhumi has no shortage of check-in and bag drop desks in the huge Level 4 concourse. How many are open is a bit of a lottery, but I’ve never had to queue more than 20 minutes. Don’t miss the towering, colorful Viruncamban statues watching your every move.
Security and immigration are less fun. Although there’s plenty of room and it’s usually well staffed, the layout is confusing and can create bottlenecks. You’ll find yourself going up and down floors as you move from security checks to immigration desks.
Staff are fastidious (forms need to be filled and prints taken) so it’s seldom fast moving. I usually give myself around 90 minutes to make it from arrival to airside, just to be on the safe side.
Connecting through Suvarnabhumi
I’ve transferred through Suvarnabhumi more times than any other airport, mostly to domestic destinations. The connection routes are well signposted but can feel a little chaotic. Last time, I was issued a colored sticker to wear with zero explanation of what it meant. Just go with the flow.
Thailand has discontinued the paper TM6 arrival/departure cards for air arrivals, with a new Thailand Digital Arrival Card (TDAC) system rolling out soon. You’ll need to queue for both immigration and security, and the right line depends on whether you’re connecting domestically or internationally. If in doubt, just ask, the Thai staff are uniformly lovely and friendly.
Queues can move slowly since checks are thorough, so give yourself at least two hours to make your connecting flight.
If you’re really worried there’s a VIP Fast-Track service (such as SAWASDEE by AOT) available for purchase, though I’ve never needed to use it.
Airside entertainment
If the Viruncamban statues impressed you, prepare to be blown away by the massive serpent Naga statue that welcomes you airside. Once you’ve picked your jaw up off the floor, you have some shopping to do. A long, bright boulevard of high-end stores stretches out in both directions, from Bvlgari to Rolex and most brands in between.
I prefer the King Power Duty Free outlets - they’re the sole operator here. Beyond the usual booze and tobacco, they’re packed with Thai delicacies. Stock up on the dried mango (great for the flight) and spicy Blue Elephant Krapao sauces. If you didn’t eat at the Magic Food Court landside (which you really should), there are restaurants, cafés and the usual fast-food joints here.
Interestingly the airport groups cuisines by airline location. The East zone, with Japan Airlines and Thai Airways, has more Asian restaurants. The West, handling US and European flights, has more western choices. It’s a bizarre attempt to play to stereotypes, and sadly, most spots lean more toward convenience than quality.
My go-to is the Japanese ramen at Kosuke, but it’s still no match for the Magic Food Court.
My favorite pastime, however, is a stroll through the massive courtyard park. It’s lush, smells of frangipani and is filled with tropical air. Find a park bench, sit back and watch the planes pass overhead. It’s the perfect sendoff before a long flight home.
This KAYAK-commissioned article is presented as-is, for general informational purposes only, and may not be up-to-date. The opinions contained in the article are original to the author and reflect their authentic experience, which may vary significantly from the experience of others.
